For the past decades, there’s been a craze over dark tourism. That is visiting places associated with tragedy, wars, and devastation. One of those spots that has intrigued travelers around the world is North Korea, probably the most hermetic country in the world. The fact that almost nobody outside North Korea knows almost nothing about what’s going on, and the fact that its population is living under a rock regarding everything that happens outside in the world, has some allure for some tourists who want to witness first-hand the reality the country lives in.
What’s going on in North Korea?
Now, before going into the details about how you can travel to this unique country, let’s talk a little bit about the political situation in North Korea and why it is such a hermetic country. In 1953, after centuries of foreign invasion, decades of political tensions, and a three-year war between North and South Korea, the country was finally divided, forming two nations: The Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (aka North Korea) and the Republic of Korea (South Korea).
Although both sides signed an armistice agreement stopping war conflict, both are still technically in war, and thus, the relations between them are extremely tense. For three generations, the country has lived under the dictatorial rule of the Kims. First, Kim Il-sung, father of North Korea and a figure you’ll be seeing all over your trip through paintings, statues, and propaganda posters, then his son, Kim Jong-il, who carried on with his father’s political structure, and finally, Kim Jong-un the current ‘Great Leader’ of North Korea.
Basic things to know before booking a ticket to North Korea
Most of us are used to traveling at our own pace and visiting the spots that caught our attention. Forget about that if you plan on going to North Korea. Being a country ruled by totalitarianism, everything (and I mean absolutely everything) is controlled by the government. That is, what you wear, what you’re allowed to see, and even what you have access to in terms of information. For that matter, the only way tourists are allowed into the country is through specifically authorized tours. Attempting to enter the country by yourself can be considered espionage or invasion, and as you can imagine, the sanction for doing so can be deathly.
Let’s start with the basics. Not all nationalities are allowed to enter the country; South Korea is the most restricted one. Besides that, nationals from Japan, the US, the UK, and Israel, might find some restrictions and would need thorough investigation from the government to be approved for entry. Now, even if you don’t belong to these countries, the government will still research you and your intentions to enter before authorizing the entry. Having said this, let’s move on to how to do it.
How long does it take to reach North Korea?
As we mentioned, the only way you can travel to North Korea as a tourist is through an authorized travel agency. There are very few companies (around 10) that have that arrangement, but it’s not impossible to find one. Most of these agencies will make you start your trip in China, to be precise in Beijing’s train station. The only way to enter North Korea is via train. So, after a passport inspection, you’ll take a 14-hour train journey to Dandong, China, the last spot before crossing into North Korea. There, you’ll take another train that will finally take you to Pyongyang, the capital of North Korea. This last train takes about 9 hours, so in total, from Beijing to Pyongyang, you’ll be traveling for almost an entire day!
Once in Dandong, you’ll have to pass through migration to issue a special visa to North Korea. This visa, unlike what you might imagine, is just printed on regular paper, but you have to take extra good care of it since it’s your only way out. Important note; almost right away when the journey starts, you’ll be crossing the bridge that divides China from North Korea, so that will be your last moment with internet access. More importantly, you won’t be able to film or take photos on the border, as we’ll see in a moment, that is because it’s absolutely forbidden to capture military bases, soldiers, and weapons.
There you’ll make a stop in migration where your belongings and documents will be revised. This includes a thorough inspection of your electronic devices, whatever cultural product you bring with you (books, movies, albums), and even the prints you could have on your clothes. If they’re on the forbidden list, they will be confiscated.
Where to stay in North Korea?
In Pyongyang, you’ll be received by a couple of North Korean tourists guides. Besides the guide the travel agency provides, you’ll be accompanied all your stay by these local guides that work for the government at all times. Their job, apart from showing you around, is to make sure nobody does anything considered illegal by the government. That includes, as you can guess, what you can film or take photos of, what kind of clothes you’re allowed to wear, and that you don’t separate from the group to explore by yourself.
They will take you on a bus to your hotel where they will set all these rules for you. Now, there are very few hotels for international travelers, but the one almost all agencies book with is the famous Yanggakdo International Hotel set on the island of Yanggak in the River Taedong. Another important note is that you won’t be able to leave the hotel unless you’re accompanied by the local guides. There you’ll be able to enjoy some of the amenities, including a karaoke lounge, a bowling alley, billiard tables, and a restaurant bar. However, you won’t be able to wander around the hotel since there are restricted areas, including the mysterious floor five.
How can you communicate in North Korea?
As we mentioned, there’s no internet access in all North Korea nor phone services. If you’re lucky enough, you might be able to send some emails at the hotel, but it isn’t as you might imagine. You have to tell the hotel workers the message you want to send, what’s the intention of the email, and the address. They will charge you per MB, so you’ll probably only be able to send some text. If they consider your email to be safe, then they’ll send it.
What currency are you allowed to use in North Korea?
The official currency is the North Korean Won. It replaced the Korean Yen in 1947. However, it’s had three modifications since, and it’s not rare to see some old currency during your stay. Now, getting and using North Korean currency isn’t as easy for foreign visitors. You can get some at the Kwangbok Department Store, which is one of the destinations the tour is going to take you to, but you can only use it to buy some goods there and then exchange it back.
As a matter of fact, it’s illegal to take North Korean currency out of the country, and doing so it’s considered one of the worst offenses you can do. So, actually the currency you’ll be using during your stay is the Chinese Renminbi or RMB.
What can you visit and what to expect
We’ve talked about this a little bit. Everything you’ll be visiting is spots approved by the government. This means that they’ll show you around places that exalt the ideology of North Korea. This includes the Demilitarized Zone on the border with South Korea, the local library, a traditional circus, a spectacle of artistically genius children, the department store we talked about, that’s pretty much set for tourists, and other random entertaining spots.
Probably the most solemn destinations are the bronze statues of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il, where you have to pay tribute to them. You’ll also visit Kim Il-sung’ Square, where the famous military parades take place and where the government offices are. The most shocking destination for many is probably, the Kumsusan Palace of the Sun, also known as the Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il Mausoleum. This was Kim Il-sung’s official residence, and after his death, it was turned into a mausoleum where his and his son’s bodies are exhibited; literally.
Traveling to North Korea during the COVID-19 pandemic
Traveling to North Korea is very restricted regardless of the pandemic. You’ll see when booking through one of the agencies that foreign tourism is only allowed during certain seasons. Unfortunately, due to the pandemic, all international entries have been suspended. They will probably be reinstated in the nearby future.
Traveling to North Korea might be extremely restrictive and even overwhelming. However, getting to know other cultures and other ways of living can teach us a lot about empathy and diversity.