Discover The Wonders Of The Ancient Maya River Usumacinta

By Dilly Hoyt

This 600-mile river basin remains vital to its inhabitants, serving as a land border, a biodiversity hotspot, and a means of transport and communication between rural communities since long before the advent of planes and tarmac roads.

On a recent journey with non-profit Ninth Wave Global, the treasures of Usumacinta were humbly revealed to me while paddling down the river on an open canoe.

Sunset over a flooded Usumacinta river ©Darryl HinchleyFlowing along its gentle current gives a taste for pre-Columbian life, where as many as 5 million Mayans once used the currents for trade and travel. Today, families reside along its banks and sustain contemporary links to their rich Mayan ancestry. These communities are among the most politically and economically marginalized in Mexico and Guatemala.

A turkey vulture (Cathartes aura) basking in the sun, Usumacinta ©Darryl HinchleyBesides the rich and unique history and culture that borders the river, Usumacinta is one of the most biologically diverse regions in the world. Many believe that the watershed drains the largest remaining contiguous tropical forest north of the Amazon, and the protected Pantanos de Centla biosphere, which spans the northern part of the river, is the biggest area of wetlands in North America.

Cattle Egrets (Bubulcus ibis) flying over the river at dawn ©Darryl HinchleyThe network of rivers and lagoons is home to over 500 bird species, such as migratory roseate spoonbills, amazon kingfishers and endangered yellow-headed parrots. While navigating the currents of the basin, bright flashes of color and bird song will consume your senses- in fact, you’ll wish you had more arms to maneuver the paddles, while clutching your bird book and binoculars!

Interspersed between the sounds of birdsong and the splashes from the canoe’s paddles, the alarming din of the howler monkey can be heard as far as 3 miles away. In fact, the very name Usumacinta means “the place of the monkeys.”

Howler monkey, photo By Gavin ShandSightings of the iconic primate are frequent, as they are often seen feasting in the canopy of the fruit trees along the riverbanks.

Despite the threats of deforestation, mineral exploitation, and border conflict, the Usumacinta river has come out remarkably unscathed, with discussions of phantom plans for hydro-electrical development projects stretching over decades, yet failing to gain traction. The vast lagoons and dense tropical forest have made the exploitation of its resources incredibly difficult, and so clean waters have mostly prevailed, maintaining the 112 fish species, and large populations of crocodiles, otters, and manatees.

A view from the watchtower of Salsipuedes, Usumacinta River ©Darryl HinchleyFor further information about journeys on the Usumacinta river and environmental projects in South-East Mexico, contact Ninth Wave Global at info@ninthwaveglobal.com

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