Catemaco is a city located on the coasts of Veracruz, that beyond being famous for its amazing lake and unique fauna, is known as being the capital of witchcraft in Mexico. Even if you haven’t heard of it, you’ve probably seen it as it was the setting of Mel Gibson’s infamous film Apocalypto, a reason why you’ll likely see photos of the filmmaker in every single store and restaurant in Catemaco. But that’s another story.
Catemaco was first inhabited by the Olmec civilization leaving valuable traces throughout the land like the famous monumental Olmec heads. The territory was then populated by the Mexicas until the Spanish took it, bringing with them slaves from Haiti and Cuba. Most rituals made in the region have roots in native pre-Hispanic religion, Catholicism, Cuban Santeria, and Haitian voodoo, thus creating a syncretism that many years later would identify Catemaco as a land of witches.
A magical town with impressive powers
During the 70s, tourism in Catemaco reached a very high point thanks to Gonzalo Aguirre, a very famous and well-known sorcerer in the region. Politicians, actors, journalists, and many other leading figures would travel to Catemaco to attend a ritual with Gonzalo, which was known as “El Brujo Mayor.” He passed away in 1982, and since six shamans have taken the title.
[Photo from Instagram: @marieldeviaje]
Politics and witchcraft in Mexico have a long story. In the book The Sorcerers of Power, José Gil Olmos claims that several politicians managed to achieve their most powerful ambitions thanks to the forces of magic. He even assures that presidents were elected after visiting Catemaco and engaging in a special ritual.
All kinds of rituals
Without a doubt, the most common rituals in Catemaco are the spiritual cleansings or ‘limpias,’ but there are also some sorcerers who promise to cure you of any illness you may have as long as it’s not in an advanced stage.
The spiritual cleansing is a practice that has its roots before the Great Tenochtitlán was conquered by the Spaniards, and since then, it has been adapted to the most common religious belief in Mexico, Catholicism. The most common cleansing rituals usually involve chicken eggs, some sprigs of rosemary, and incense.
Anyone who comes from a Mexican household has surely experienced a limpia of some sort most likely using an egg. This is because limpias have become a very common practice that has been passed through generations. These involve a Catholic prayer, while an egg is rubbed across the body. According to the tradition, the egg is then cracked into a glass of water for examination. How the egg looks will say if you have bad energies or curses. In Catemaco you’ll find these and more elaborate rituals for every single purpose.
Catemaco: a tourist attraction
Although witchcraft is the main activity in Catemaco, and many of its population make a living of it, there are many more things to do and see in the town. The Catemaco lagoon, for instance, has some islands filled with monkeys and other types of exciting fauna. Not only that, you can take a boat and go for a beach day while enjoying Veracruz’s delicious gastronomy.
As one of Mexico’s Magical towns (name that has nothing to do with the witchcraft mentioned), Catemaco’s town has gorgeous colonial buildings that grant a unique timeless view.