Throughout history, the Day of the Dead has been one of the most important celebrations in Mexico. A tradition dedicated to our beloved ones that have left this world, the Day of the Dead grants each house the opportunity of placing an altar that will receive the spirits of the dead on November 1 and 2. The iconic sugar skull is one of the most tasty and traditional elements of the altar.
From a variety of favorite and exquisite classic dishes, such as tamales and mole, to colorful designs contained in papel picado (a craft made with tissue paper), the altar (known as ofrenda) requires a series of essential features; each of these pieces has a special meaning. Among these, we can find the iconic sugar skull, a traditional sweet that’s one of the key elements that can be found in every Day-of-the-Dead altar.
Origins of Sugar Skulls
The origin of the sugar skull has been debated amongst historians. Some claim it dates back to the pre-Hispanic era while others find its origins in Medieval Spain. Pre-Hispanic cultures considered death as another common phase of life’s cycle. Rather than fearing it, these communities performed rituals in honor of death. In these, they used to expose preserved skulls, something that was common at that time.
Back then, the pre-Hispanic cultures had the Tzompantli, an altar to death that symbolized the passage of people from the earthly to the spiritual once they died. The Tzompantli also represented the figure of the skull. How? It was formed by rows of skulls of people sacrificed in honor of pre-Hispanic gods, especially Mictlatecuhtli, the god of the underworld.
Through this offering, they believed that the passage of people to other levels of the underworld was ensured, allowing them to reach an eternal rest. However, once the Spanish arrived and conquered the pre-Hispanic world, they prohibited these rituals from going against Catholic beliefs.
Now, the other option of the debate states that sugar skulls have always been a Catholic tradition. All Soul’s Day started to be celebrated around the 10th century on November 2. This celebration honored the saints and martyrs that gave their lives at the beginning of Christianity. In Spain, churches started to display the relics of these saints on All Soul’s Day for people to worship and get close to divinity as these were considered a link between Heaven and Earth.
Relics could be anything that belonged to these saints, a piece of clothing, jewelry, hair, nails, some bones, and, yes, skulls. According to the tradition, people started making candies shaped as the relics they were visited, and the priest would bless these sweets so that people could place them at their altars at home. When the evangelization of the Americas started, priests realized that there was a coincidence in the date November 2 for certain pre-Hispanic traditions, and thus, syncretism began.
Meaning of the sugar skull in the Day of the Dead
Sugar skulls tend to be placed on Day of the Dead altars along with the pan de muerto (bread of the dead). Both are part of the most important gastronomic traditions that honor those who are no longer with us. The sugar skulls come in different sizes and are decorated with sugar flowers along with other ornaments. Some of these sweet skulls have names placed on their foreheads as well.
In general, the names on sugar skulls can have two meanings. The first may refer to the deceased that you want to remember on your altar. The second can hint at a person who is still living. So, by giving that person a ‘personalized skull,’ it means that you are saving them a space in the afterlife. In addition to this, it serves as a reminder that the only assured thing we have in this life is death.
How Are Sugar Skulls Made?
The sugar skull is made with the alfeñique, a technique that requires a mixture of sugar, egg white, hot water, lemon juice, and a plant called chautle. This recipe was introduced in Mexico by the Spanish, who, in turn, adopted the alfeñique from the Arab culture.
The process to make the sugar skull with the alfeñique is called “emptying,” in which the sugar is dissolved in water and left to boil until it thickens, adding a little lemon to it. The artisans whisk the mixture quickly so that it can crystallize and be poured into molds. Then, the mold is turned quickly so that part of the inner mixture drains out to hollow the skull. Finally, the skulls are taken out of the mold and decorated with colorful icing.
Nowadays, the alfeñique is a recognized technique in Mexico. Some states, such as Morelos, Guanajuato, Estado de Mexico, and Oaxaca, dedicate festivals where you can see how artisans elaborate this delicious piece of art.
Varieties of the Sugar Skull
Currently, there are other versions of these traditional sugar skulls. This sweet treat of the Day of the Dead can be made of chocolate, amaranth, sugarcoated gummies, or even some tamarind spicy mixture. Depending on the country’s region, the sugar skull is elaborated with the local ingredient. For example, in Puebla, the main ingredients are almonds, peanuts, and pumpkin seeds, while in Oaxaca, the sugar skulls have crystallized sugar and honey. There are also, some variations in shapes. Today we can find all sorts of figures made of alfeñique, like colorful tombs, devils, and even pan de muerto.
