We all want to visit magical and special places, but just because we’re tourists and paying for a trip doesn’t mean we have the right to disrupt the way of life in each place. There is a middle ground where we can enjoy the trip without being disrespectful. For example, McLeod Ganj is a little piece of Tibet located in India. Little is known about this place, just as little as about Tibet itself. There, at an altitude of 2,000 meters and still at the foot of the Himalayas, the Dalai Lama lives.
The summarized history, and from a pro-Tibet version, is something like this: in 1959, China invaded Tibet, destroying temples, killing inhabitants, and trying to capture the XIV Dalai Lama, so he went into exile in India.
Since then, China has taken over Tibet and is patiently waiting for Tibetan Buddhism to disappear and for the territory to ultimately become part of China, not only territorially but also culturally. The Dalai Lama remains the spiritual reference of Tibetan Buddhism, even in exile, and has already said that he will not reincarnate after his death.
Despite the difficulties they have faced, the landscape is breathtaking. Being so high up makes the clouds pass by at your height, covering the mountains for just a few minutes, representing an exact metaphor for the thoughts inside oneself: if you don’t engage with any of them, they simply pass by and leave you to understand that you are not those thoughts, but what remains when you let them go.
Getting to this place is complicated, but not impossible. A recently inaugurated air route by plane leaves from Delhi and takes you to Dharamsala, the nearest city. From Rishikesh, you can travel by sleeper bus for 12 hours at night. Trains leave you quite far away, and you have to search for connections, so it is not convenient. The road to get there from the Dharamsala airport is a two-lane road that zigzags between the forest and the cliff, always uphill. Once up there, three streets open up that practically represent the whole town. You can follow these tips to make the most of the trip without bothering the locals.
Learn About the History and Which Sites Are Public and Which Are Not
The most important place is the temple where the Dalai Lama lives at the top of the city. It is open to the public and has mats for those who want to meditate, do yoga, or sit and contemplate the landscape. There is also a museum there with the history of Tibet and various shops selling Tibetan and Ayurvedic products. Don’t haggle, remember that for many, this is their only source of income.
Dare to Try New Flavors
Like all of India, food is a must. But here, the cultural mix is what sets it apart from the rest of the country. The food is not spicy, and its taste is nothing like what you can find in other cities in northern India. The difference between the Hinduism of the country and the Buddhism of McLeod Ganj is evident at first glance.
Explore the Streets
If you like to go for a walk, Dharamkot is a good option. Several streets branch off from the city center, one of which goes uphill and takes you to this even smaller village. It consists of only a tiny street with houses, bars, and hotels on both sides, from where you can appreciate the landscape much better.
Join Public Meditation Spaces
For those who meditate, on the way to Dharamkot is Tushita, a meditation center that offers free guided meditation every morning. It is given in English, and even those who have never tried meditation.
Don’t Be That Noisy Tourist
If your first trips were to India, you will notice a big visible and audible difference with the rest of the country. People are more calm and you won’t hear car horns on the streets. Respect the silence and calmness. This is a perfect place to walk and enjoy the Himalayan landscape from all its viewpoints, or the forest that covers the entire city. A good option is also to enter the businesses, as you will find more similarities with Nepal than with Rajasthan. It is also interesting to talk with the Tibetans and understand a little more about their history, something that you won’t find in any other Indian city.
Story originally written in Spanish by Ariana Saiegh in Cultura Colectiva.
