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By Clare Watson
In 1999, the city of Campeche, capital of the state of the same name, was listed as one of the world’s cultural heritage sites. Now, 20 years on, the city remains an incredibly beautiful and tranquil space to immerse yourself in the unique colonial architecture that was such an important legacy of the Spanish colony.
Campeche boasts the same bold colors and baroque-inspired façades to be found in many Spanish colonial cities, but somehow, they’re all the more vivid due to the fact that the city is still relatively unknown, as well as its walled physicality – and so its cobbled streets remain little trodden by tourists.
So, whether you’re sampling the street food, bustling round the Mercado Principal, or simply strolling and soaking in the technicolor streets, your experience is sure to feel as authentic as can be. The city is also warm and welcoming, and with the reliable 30°C weather, it is easy to feel why Campeche is notorious for being a sleepy town. Cramming a packed day here would be a mistake, as the true beauty of the city lies in stopping and smelling the roses.
A perfect oasis for your stay during this celebratory year is Hostal Boutique Casa Balche – a real gem in the heart of the city with amazing views, set right on the main square with a one-of-a-kind open rooftop that is home to events throughout the year like zero-waste festivals, live music, and other special events – the perfect hub for exploring Campeche.
The fanciful style of each of the city’s houses is a marvel, no doubt. Yet the history is more deeply felt once you discover those such houses that nature has claimed back for itself. The very few number of transformations or interventions in the architecture earned the city its UNESCO status 20 years ago – those that have been restored have been done so with traditional techniques and materials. The grand city wall and sea forts offer concrete examples of Spanish military engineering used to defend the city from Pirates and Buccaneers.
The city’s museums provide detailed insight into this particular aspect of Campeche’s history. If you visit the museums that sit up at the forts, you will also find the perfect spots to see the city from a height. The view is ideal for sunset, with the Gulf of Mexico surrounding your vision and the remains of the mangroves stretching out to the North-East, the site is truly spectacular, with sunsets on the Malecon like no other. From the Malecon you’re a stone’s throw away from Calle America (Calle 59), the tourist hotspot that promises amazing food and a lively atmosphere.
Here, the La Pagoda restaurant is a traditional eatery serving food that is loved by locals and travelers alike, a favorite for its amazing food, but also one that it is widely regarded as having a cutting-edge social and environmental ethos that benefits the city and its inhabitants greatly. Moving on after a wholesome lunch, Canek59 is where Campeche’s intellectuals and progressives hang out – an ideal place to continue your drinks through the night, eavesdropping on the latest from the city’s burgeoning and traditional arts community.
All businesses mentioned are members of the (Empresa Verde Campeche) Campeche Green Business scheme: just one example of inspirational development that can be found amongst the city’s wealth of tradition and history.
Photos: Gavin Shand
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