Right in the center of Mexico City, high at the top of the Chapultepec Hill, lies the magnificent Chapultepec Castle, a three-centuries old building known to be the only royal castle in the entire American continent. Its thick walls, sophisticated halls, and its impressive gardens hold most of Mexico’s history after the conquest. This is one of the main reasons it’s been, for almost a century, the National Museum of History.
You might recognize if from Baz Luhrmann’s adaptation of Shakespeare’s Romeo + Juliet, as the astounding residence of the Capulet, or if you’ve been to the city, you’ve certainly have heard of the immense park of Chapultepec. Whatever the reason, this unique building is special not only in terms of its architecture and unique location but, as mentioned, because of the long history that it holds.
Chapultepec, which means “Hill of the grasshopper” in Nahuatl, has been a landmark of the region since pre-Columbian times. The Chapultepec hill passed from being an Aztec palace to a religious hermitage, the residency of viceroys, military school, a royal castle, the home of presidents, an observatory, and now one of the city’s main museums.
Aztec sacred site
Before the Aztecs even existed, the region was inhabited by the Totec civilization, who gave it the name of Chapultepec. During the classic period, the region was occupied by the Teotihuacan’s, famous for their colossal pyramids and their mysterious sudden disappearance. However, it wasn’t until the Mexica (or the Aztecs) settled on the region, when Chapultepec gained its importance.
They considered the hill to be both a sacred place and a strategic spot for the growth of their city. For that reason, they destined the spot to be the repository of the ashes of their main rulers. Back then, Chapultepec had important springs that became the city’s main sources of fresh water. Eventually, the great tlatoanis made Chapultepec a retreat area for the Mexica elite. It was Nezahualcóyotl, the very first ruler to build a palace in the area in the 15th century. Time after, Moctezuma Xocoyotzin followed his steps and built on the skirts of the hill some luxurious reservoirs to raise and store exotic fish from all over his empire. Besides that, several baths have been recently discovered, which had been attributed to Moctezuma.
Colonial origins
With the falling of Tenochtitlán, Spanish missionaries saw the sacred and religious importance of the Chapultepec hill and decided to settle a Franciscan hermitage, covering entirely the Mexica altars at the top. Eventually, Hernán Cortés took Chapultepec for himself and started gifting portions to his loyal aides, including Juan Jaramillo, Malinche’s husband. This, as Cortés’ power, wouldn’t last long, and in 1530, emperor Charles V appropriated the area and decreed it belonged to the City, not to individuals. For the first time in centuries, Chapultepec was once again open to the public, and its aqueducts and springs became essential sources for the growing population of the city.
A couple of centuries later, once the colony had been long established and was well-functioning, Viceroy Bernardo de Gálvez, decided it was time to build an official residence for the viceroys of the New Spain. Following some European castles, which were built at the top of hills, Gálvez resolved that the ancient sacred Chapultepec Hill was the ideal spot fit for a ruler. The hermitage that had been built by the Franciscans was demolished in the late 18th century and the construction of a monumental castle began. The plans also included some amenities in the surrounding forest for the leisure of the elite.
The construction had several leading architects who would make some alterations to the original blueprints. When an architect called Mascaró took over the project, problems began. Although he proved to be quite efficient and fast, his alterations and design made his intentions somewhat suspicious. He was accused of building what seemed like a fortress to store ammunition and rebel against the Crown. Just one year after the project started, Viceroy Bernardo de Gálvez died mysteriously. It’s believed he was poisoned.
The Crown then decided that the building, or at least what they had managed to erect, would be auctioned for a fifth of what it had cost. It remained decades without an owner until 1806 when the municipal government finally bought it.
Military College
In 1810, the Independence War outbroke, and all the controversies around the Chapultepec Castle were forgotten. During the 11 years of conflict and another decade more, the place remained abandoned. In 1833, it was finally decided that the Castle, which now belonged to the city, was perfect to become a Military College, so needed now that Mexico was an independent country. Young men from all over the country would try to get admitted into the academy. However, it was an elite school, and most of its alumni belonged to rich or accommodated families.
One of the most well-known episodes in Mexican history regarding the Chapultepec Castle and its phase as a Military College is the tragedy of the Niños Héroes (Boy Heroes). It all happened during the Mexican-American War. Mexico was losing, and the US Army was reaching the city. Alone, the young (some still children according to the story) students fought bravely to defend the castle. Even one of them, Juan Escutia, threw himself with the Mexican Flag to impede the US Army from taking it. Today, six sculptures of the Niños Héroes adorn the entrance garden of the Castle, besides a huge mural on the entrance of the building.
Years later, during the presidency of Miguel Miramón, a former student of the College, many new rooms were built on the second floor of the Castle, but no new residents inhabited it.
Royal Residency
The Chapultepec Castle is considered the only royal Castle on the American Continent because of the next tenants. In the second half of the 19th century, independent Mexico was submerged in a chaotic battle between liberals and conservatives. When liberal president Benito Juarez rose to power, the conservatives did everything to topple him. It didn’t help his cause the fact that the French had decided to invade the country for a second time forcing Juarez to flee to the US, aided by no other than his friend President Abraham Lincoln. But that’s another story.
During these times of havoc, the conservatives saw a window of opportunity. They decided to invite the young prince of Austria, Maximilian of Habsburg to become emperor of Mexico and establish the Second Mexican Empire. The first one had been led by Agustín de Iturbide right after the Independence was won, he actually built a magnificent palace known as the only royal palace in the continent as well. But let’s go back to Max and his wife Carlota, considered by many two of the worst villains of Mexican history.
Before their arrival, the royal couple sent architects and designers to make Chapultepec worthy of their lineage. Carlota was the daughter of Leopold I of Belgium, one of the most powerful men in Europe, and Maximilian was the son of the Austrian emperor, also quite an influential monarch. The Castillo de Miravalle, as they renamed Chapultepec, became the official royal residency in 1864, when the couple arrived.
The iconic neoclassical style that can be admired today was built during this time, as well as the lavish gardens surrounding it and the gorgeous roof garden at the very top. The emperors also brought with them all sorts of sophisticated puedes of art and furniture that can still be seen today. Once they were settled Maximilian and Carlota didn’t stop. Back in the day, Chapultepec was still outside the city, so Maximilian decided to build a straight boulevard in the fashion of European iconic streets such as Champs-Élysées in Paris. He named it the Paseo de la Emperatriz (Promenade of the Empress). History has it, he made it so Carlota would see him arrive as he rode with his horse. This boulevard is now the iconic Paseo de la Reforma, a landmark of the city itself.
Sadly, the Second Empire wasn’t as great as Maximilian and Carlota were told, and it became obvious since their arrival that they weren’t welcome. It all had a tragic end when they lost the support of the French, and Juarez managed to make it back to the city. After only three years of rule, Carlota fled to Europe desperately asking for help (which she didn’t receive); Maximilian was executed in Mexico.
From Presidential residency to Museum of National History
The Chapultepec Castle was abandoned after the death of Maximilian. Over a decade after, it was established as an astronomical observatory, but it only lasted five years when it was moved to Tacubaya in the center of the city. The idea was to bring back the military college in Chapultepec, as well as establish some of its rooms as presidential residency. In the 1880s, the building had some major structural renovations during the dictatorship of Porfirio Díaz, who made it his official residency. Some of his rooms are still exhibited today.
When Díaz was toppled sparking the Mexican Revolution, Chapultepec remained the official presidential house. During this convulsed time of war, it was inhabited by several presidents, including Francisco I. Madero, though it was mostly used as a guest house for foreign dignitaries.
It wasn’t until 1939 when President Lázaro Cárdenas decided that Chapultepec had a unique historical value and thus it should be opened for the public. He moved the presidential lodgings to Los Pinos (the official presidential residence until 2018) and decreed that Chapultepec was now the National Museum of History.
The Museum has several halls with objects and art depicting the story of Mexico from its colonial origins to the modern era. But, besides the magnificence of the Castle, the main star of the museum is Maximilian and Carlota’s lodgings, and what makes this Castle unique in its kind.
Photos from: Shutterstock and Wikimedia Commons
